Cell phones are great but when you want to know the time, nothing beats a watch. It’s easy to see, easy to find and is available 24/7. A watch, however, can only serve you well if it receives regular servicing. Whether it’s a basic model or a luxury timepiece, when it starts losing time, it’s time for a check-up. “Within the Lee Michaels network, we have three outstanding watchmakers—Danny Hanke, CW21; Bobby McGee, CW21; and Beau Allain, CW21,” says Scott Berg, Lee Michaels co-president. “Each has been with us over ten years and all are 21st Century Certified Watchmakers, also known as CW21-certified, by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute.” “The training, classes, and testing it takes to achieve this certification have made us all much better watchmakers,” says Danny Hanke, a thirteen-year veteran with Lee Michaels. Not all jewelers have their own watchmakers—much less 21st Century Certified watchmakers. As a result, they must send their customers’ watches away to be repaired. With Lee Michaels, customers can rest assured that their timepieces stay within the Lee Michaels network. “You get a lot of personal treatment when you select your timepiece and have it repaired at the same place,” says Bobby McGee, a 36-year veteran watchmaker. “Those long-term, personal relationships help customers feel more comfortable leaving their valuable watches with us—whether their value is sentimental or monetary.”
Such extraordinary watchmakers should have extraordinary workshops—and at Lee Michaels, they do! “It costs several hundred thousand dollars to build these state of the art facilities,” says Lee Michaels co-president Ryan Berg. “They almost have a hospital-like environment—well-equipped and pristine.” We want our watch making shops to be the finest in the industry and are currently updating them to the 21st Century level—the finest level possible.” Beau Allain agrees. “In a word, my watch making shop at Lee Michaels is state of the art!” “Our customers would be impressed at how intricate, in-depth and time-consuming a complete watch servicing is,” says Bobby. “We take so much care to make sure it not only runs well, but that it is restored to a beautiful, well-running timepiece. Doing this takes more time but it has to be completed right. You just have to do it right.”
When a customer brings a watch to Lee Michaels to be repaired, either Danny, Bobby or Beau assesses the entire watch—the movement, case and bracelet—and provides an estimate to the customer. After the customer approves the service estimate, our watchmaker begins to work his magic. “We totally take the watch apart,” says Beau Allain. Separating the bracelet from the case, our watchmaker detaches the dials and the hands. Then the movement (which is the heart of the watch) is expertly, delicately and completely dismantled. The parts are so intricately small, the watchmakers work with tweezers and use 25X magnifying loupes to remove them.
These components are then cleaned in an ultrasonic bath and inspected. Worn parts are replaced and then the watch movement is reassembled and lubricated, piece by piece. After this, the watchmaker makes initial adjustments to the movement and replaces the dial and the hands. “The level of attention to detail and the great dexterity of our watchmakers are impressive,” says Lee Michaels co-president Ryan Berg. “Imagine putting in a ¼ mm screw—that’s about 1/100th of an inch long! Plus, there’s no one-size-fits-all watch movement, so our expert watchmakers must have the knowledge and training to diagnose and repair the problems for each and every watch they repair.”
Next, the case is carefully taken apart and re-polished or satin-finished by hand to remove the knicks and scars that come with everyday living. Using a felt-covered wheel and cutting paste, our watchmaker buffs away blemishes, then buffs the case with microfiber sheets before polishing it to perfection. After this, the seals are replaced and the crystal, bezel and middle case are reassembled. The bracelet is likewise polished or satin-finished link-by-link and thoroughly cleaned. Then our watchmaker ever so carefully puts the movement back into the case and makes final adjustments to assure superior performance. The watch is then tested for precision. If the watch is waterproof, the case is pressure-tested in water before it is refitted with the bracelet.
Our watchmaker then checks the watch one last time for flawless performance and impeccable finish.
So, which part of the process do our watchmakers find most rewarding? “My greatest satisfaction is starting with a broken or non-functioning, worn and scratched watch and ending up with a beautifully refinished and repaired timepiece,” says Danny. “I enjoy taking a watch that has been neglected and turning it into something that is very beautiful and keeps exceptional time,” says Bobby. “Regardless of the model or who owns it, what matters to me is to do the best job I can,” says Beau.
When the time is right, entrust your timepiece to our own long-time treasures—Danny Hanke, Bobby McGee and Beau Allain—the CW21-certified watchmakers at Lee Michaels. You’ll agree with us, they are among the best in the country.
